Christo’s The Gates

Thursday, February 24th, 2005 6:54 am — Stories, Rambles, and Other ThingsComments (0)




What I will remember most about The Gates is not how it looked but how it sounded. When the winds cooked up the sheets flailed, and a thick rumble grew from the movement. A pompous thunder like the sound a flag makes when blowing in the wind. But the sound was not of some tiny flag on a flagpole. The sound was deep and tremendous, made by dozens of these enormous and heavy sheets. You didn’t have to be under them or even too close to them to feel it. For lack of a better word that sound was simply awesome.

At its best The Gates heralds the joy of public space. At its worst it is a dump on Central Park of tacky Home Depot-colored metal. Visitors to the park, looking for whatever rejuvenation they may expect to find there, could rightfully be disgusted to find their place of respite taken over as a playground for the stupidly rich (Christo paid $20,000,000, more money than will pass through the hands of most people in their lifetime, to produce The Gates).

The Gates is gaudy, and from some vantage points an ugly eyesore. It is not profound but that does not make it meaningless. It is magnanimous, a spectacle sprawling yet uniform. It is a product of the 1970s, and I believe that had The Gates premiered in Central Park in 1979, or the early 1980s, it would have been a triumph that was still remembered today. It verges on anachronism in 2005, and thus some of its impact is lost, but it is a success nonetheless.

My take on the mood of the other visitors is anecdotal, but ordinary seeming people who I talked to were bubbling with enthusiasm for this project. A couple of men I talked to seemed to know every last detail of the event, down to what types of power tools were used, which warehouses in Queens stored everything, the density of the saffron, the weight of the lead stands.

I walked the length of the park and half way back, from Central Park South up the middle of the park to the Harlem Meer, then down the 5th Avenue side as far as 79th Street. The journey up to Harlem Meer was worth it for the view of The Gates from one of the high rocks.

On my way back home I saw this little salute to The Gates on a building at 5th Avenue and 91st Street:

Walking through The Ramble I noticed The Gates were nowhere to be seen. Was that the only such place in the park? They were also hard to spot from around the Reservoir. I think the relatively ineffectual set of gates on the 5th Avenue side could have made more noise around the Reservoir.

I overheard someone say “I think I’ve seen every single one. I walked through every single gate.” And I thought, wow, that’s over the top. I turned and saw that she was one of the Christo employees who answered questions and handed out free samples of saffron, like this one I have:

I am glad I saw The Gates, but glad as well to never see it again. I and many others want the park back the way it used to be, but I think I will always see The Gates laughing in the wind from across the Great Lawn.

 


 





















PO Box 181, NYC, 10185-0002

Tuesday, February 22nd, 2005 7:00 am — Stories, Rambles, and Other ThingsComments (0)



Strange doings at my post office box the last few weeks.

My post office box (PO Box 181, NYC, 10185) has been my permanent address for 14 years. I don’t use it as much now as before, but after moving here in 1990 I rented a PO Box because at the time I moved frequently from one apartment or hotel room to the next.

I have had some odd encounters at that Post Office Box.

Most recently, I and another gentleman were sorting our mail when a woman talking into her cell phone yelled “I HAVE TO GET AN ABORTION. I CAN’T HAVE A BABY! I’M 62 YEARS OLD.”

I might get in trouble for saying this, but I laughed. Not at what she said but at the fact she said it, loud and clear and 21st century public.

Another time I stepped up to the pick-up window to get a package. Another person stood waiting for the post office clerk to open the
door. A very tall and basically enormous black man who, in 3 seconds of unsolicited commentary informed me that he was from Ghana and had not been allowed to get his mail for 7 months. He had waited at the package window for quite a while.

The door opened and he talked to the post office clerk. I don’t know what they said, but he was disappointed to have waited “over 42 minutes” at this window for nothing. The clerk told him he needed more paperwork.

He left the post office. I got my parcel from the pick-up window. I took a bus from there (the PO Box is in Rockefeller Center) to the upper east side of Manhattan. I ordered a gyro platter (no onions) at a diner on 1st Avenue and 79th Street. A moment after placing the order that very tall man from Ghana walked in to the diner and sat down. This diner is miles away from PO Box 181, NYC, 10185. It shocked me to see him there, but when he saw me he seemed to think nothing of it. He smiled and shouted “THEY NEED MORE PAPERWORK FOR ME TO GET MY MAIL!”

I sat at the counter, giving me a ludicrous feeling of importance simply because the seats at the counter are higher than the seats at the tables.

The strange doings of late at my PO Box started a few weeks ago when I paid the annual $48 fee. The post office still had the same information about me that I gave them in 1991. Florida drivers license, an NYC address from Washington Heights/Inwood, my emergency contact was my friend from college who in 1991 lived in Philadephia. It surprised me to discover that after 14 years this was what they had on me, but the post office moves slowly.

PO Box 181 is in the exact building where anthrax was discovered soon after 9/11, and I remember like yesterday going to get my mail the very day of the anthrax discovery to see the clerks wearing rubber gloves and surgical masks just to hand me a box of DVDs from Amazon.com.

It was strange to learn that I still had paperwork here connecting me to Florida, to Washington Heights, to things that sometimes seem like a
lifetime ago and other times seem like they sit here with me. I wonder if I live mostly in the now and simply move on to the next
adventure, or if I somehow let the paperwork from my PO Box leave me connected to Florida, to Washington Heights, to Philadelphia. And why do I value this PO Box?

Last summer the PO Box section of the post office was closed for asbestos abatement. For a few months PO Box holders had to get their mail from some
room behind some doorway of the concourse at Rockefeller Center. I remember it as somewhere between the mens room and the Rite-Aid.

During that time it was open source mail. Everyone with a PO Box at that center could expect to get everyone else’s mail. I learned the names of so many of my fellow PO Boxers. Commenting to the post office clerks about how you hadn’t received an important piece of mail earned laughter. “We’re still working out the kinks!”

I remember walking in to that strange room. Showing photo ID, I was handed the largest stack of mail I’ve ever seen. Hundreds of envelopes, lots of catalogues and crap, none of it addressed to me.

When the post office re-opened my box 181, my permanent address in New York, had been moved a few feet to the left. Today I walk in to that room expecting PO Box 181 to be where it used to be from 1991 to 2004. But it is a few feet moved over to the left. I can’t get used to it.

 

 





















Biker Dude

Sunday, February 20th, 2005 7:05 am — Stories, Rambles, and Other ThingsComments (0)



I met biker dude last night. 50 or so years old. Zephyrhills cab driver now working at a bike shop in Manhattan, he knew the crackhouses of that small Florida town, he knew all the cracklords there, he knew the 3 or 4 houses they occupied.

In one hour of conversation he never asked a single question about me, but I learned maybe a little too much about him. He referred to his cock several times, saying he wished he was a younger man because he was “suitably endowed to make a lot of money as a porn star.”

Several other references to his cock.

Biker dude talked about his cock like something passing by on the television. And I gotta tell you, the only groups of people I have ever known to talk about their cocks like biker dude were comedians and computer programmers. Old school pre-Internet computer programmers. I used to sit and hear these guys describe themselves as “THE FUCKIN’ ENERGIZER BUNNY, MAN!” and I would get sudden headaches.

Same headache as last night, when biker dude whipped his cock into the conversation. I cradled my top right temple in all my fingers minus the pinky. I studied his face and the possible nuance of his words for something to change the conversation away from his cock. I studied the faces and asses and breasts of the girls sitting behind him, looking for some way out of this conversation.

Biker dude lives in a room in Corona, has an ex-wife in Zephyrhills, wears a Buccaneers cap and knows every Bucs quarterback from Steve Spurrier to Brad Johnson (Like me, he lost interest in the Bucs after the Super Bowl win. I tried to bond over this speck of common ground, tried to talk about that instead of his goddam cock).

Biker dude is laying low after getting a disorderly conduct in Manhattan a few weeks ago.

I got up to leave and he said “Tell you the truth, Mark, you’re pretty goddam depressing.”

I said “Yeah, and chicks love this shit.”

No I didn’t.

I said “Welcome to my world!”

No I didn’t.

I agreed with him. Emphatically, with as much emphasis as “the most depressing motherfucker in the world” could muster.

That’s what I did.

 


 





















Long, Long Walks To the Food Bazaar

Sunday, February 13th, 2005 7:08 am — Stories, Rambles, and Other ThingsComments (0)




Positiveness is what brought John Lennon and Yoko Ono together. He went to a performance art show of hers. To see one of her pieces Lennon had to climb a ladder to read a message on the ceiling. He expected it to be something political or self-righteous, but instead it said YES. That’s when John knew that Yoko was different.

I think of that story a lot.

I thought of it today when I saw this graffiti on the bridge that passes over Sunnyside Yards, underneath the 7 train:

The message did not seem to be directed at anyone in particular. I liked it.

I’m not sure if there’s a name designated for that bridge (there is no name for it other than Route 25 on my Hagstrom map) but it’s where Queens Boulevard leads into Queens Plaza. Another nearby bridge, the Steinway Street/39th Street Bridge, is similarly un-named on my maps as anything but a street.

The Honeywell Street Bridge is where a friend of mine walked backwards last week in search of silence. He has walked the length of the much longer Queensboro/59th Street Bridge backwards, and says that when he got to Manhattan the souls and consciences of everyone he saw were visible.

Today on the Honeywell some biker dudes were tearin’ it up, doing wheelies and raising a gut-crunching amount of noise. I can’t remember the last time I heard noise so loud and of such a quality that it made my stomach rattle, but that happened today.

I can walk a long, long way. This summer I walked the length of the Triborough Bridge and back, from Queens to Wards Island, starting at about 3:00 AM and getting back to Queens at 7:00 or 7:30 in the morning.

I get jumpy thinking about that night. The fences seemed quite low at the bridge’s highest point and I was in sorry emotional shape. It’s a high bridge.

I saw a couple of other people up there. One very elderly looking man on a bicycle, he had a Grizzly Adams beard and what I imagined to be all his possessions in a basket on the back of his bike. We looked each other straight in the eye and I wondered if he was me in 40 years, or if I was him.

While we looked at each other I thought that at that moment on that night on that bridge it really was 40 years ago.

Another night I walked from my place to Northern Boulevard, over the Honeywell Street Bridge then north to Skillman Avenue and along some streets in Sunnyside. It was about 3:00 am. Some pubs closed but others were going strong. I think I walked left on 58th Street to Broadway, then turned right and came to Roosevelt Avenue in Jackson Heights. It was a noir atmosphere. Some night clubs had closed and people were milling around outside under the subways. The only English words spoken were obscenities people yelled at each other. Steam belched out of open manholes; garbage trucks zipped around, dangerously it seemed, through construction and road work barricades; the subway roared by overhead.

It felt like I’d walked into a part of the city that existed illegally, or that most people ignored.

Back on Roosevelt Avenue I walked north and north and north for what seemed like a lifetime. I rarely plan these adventures but this night I did. Before leaving I made coffee and brought it in a thermos. I was wide awake and hot as hell.


My plan was to get to Flushing Meadows Corona Park when it opened at sunrise. That never happened, but I got as close as Junction Boulevard around 96th Street. At 4:30 I got a bottle of water and a
nectarine at the Food Bazaar, and sat on a bench outside the store.

I tried to get a cab but several cabbies refused to give me a ride. I didn’t care, and the walk back home seemed quick.

I stupidly remembered a Rod McEwen poem that I read when I was 12. The poem was something like: “The journey back is always longer than the forward run.” The only reason I remember that poem at all is because soon after I read it I found another poem by another schlock poet who said precisely the opposite. It might have been Leonard Nimoy who wrote that the journey back is always quicker than
the first trip.

At that age I think I thought “Well, it’s poetry.” At 12 years I thought poetry was an elaborate game of confusion and impenetrably hidden meaning, but in the case of these contradicting poems I
remember thinking this would be food for my life. I looked forward to determining which was right and which was wrong.

My mind had collapsed into a jumble of bad poetry, and that was my queue to end the journey. My shirt was soaked with my sweat and I zoned out the long walk by looking forward to the air conditioner
blowing into my face when I got back here.

Tupelo (a hipster dive bar) was still open and serving drinks at 6:15 in the morning, but I did not stop in. My other haunts had closed hours earlier.

I don’t know if there is a point to these stories, but I’ve told them several times and the reactions are very different. Some envy me for these earnest, solitary pursuits. Others think it’s a weird cry for help. Others forget the story as soon as I’m through telling it, if they even let me finish.

 


 

 

 























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